Astana is not for the faint of heart, nor for those expecting quaint European charm. Kazakhstan’s capital is a city of bold, ambitious architecture rising from the flat Central Asian steppe, a place that demands you look up and outwards. This guide cuts through the polished facade to reveal the local pulse that beats beneath its gleaming towers.
This guide is for travellers with a 12-hour layover in Astana who are keen to leave the airport and experience the genuine character of Kazakhstan’s capital. If you are tired of airport lounges and want to see a city that is still finding its voice, this one’s for you.
Astana’s rapid development means it is a city of striking contrasts: futuristic skyscrapers on the Left Bank meet the more grounded, Soviet-era charm of the Right Bank. This juxtaposition reflects a nation that is rapidly forging its identity at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.
A personal note
I have flown through Astana more times than I can count during my years as cabin crew. Each visit, I saw the city grow, almost visibly, with new towers and grand boulevards appearing with surprising speed. What always struck me was the contrast between the imposing, often empty, grandeur of the Left Bank, and the older, more lived-in feel of the Right Bank, where the markets buzzed and the smell of lagman hung in the air. It’s in these older pockets that you really feel the heartbeat of the city, a place of stoic pragmatism and quiet resilience.
Before you leave the airport
Storing your luggage
If you are planning to explore Astana during your layover, dropping your bags is essential.
- Astana Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport (NQZ): Located in Terminals 1 and 2, 1st Floor, landside. The cost is 900 KZT per piece per calendar day. They are open 24 hours, and you can store items for up to three months.
- City Centre (Third-party services): Options are available at various partner locations, such as near Khan Shatyr or the Triumphal Arch Mangilik El. Prices start from 1,890 KZT per day. These services are typically verified shops or hotels; booking via platforms like Radical Storage is required.
Do you need cash?
Yes, cash is necessary in Astana. While major hotels and large malls accept cards, you will need Kazakhstani Tenge (KZT) for local buses, smaller shops, traditional markets like Green Bazaar and Artyom Market, and for tipping. ATMs are readily available at the airport and throughout the city. You can also find 24-hour currency exchange counters landside in both airport terminals. For the best rates, use ATMs or exchange money at banks in the city.
12 hours in Astana: what to do
1. Immerse yourself in local life at Green Bazaar
Astana’s Green Bazaar offers a genuine glimpse into daily Kazakh life, a vibrant assault on the senses. This is where locals shop, bargain, and socialise, surrounded by mountains of fresh produce, spices, and traditional snacks.
Walk through the aisles, sampling kurt (dried cheese balls) or picking up some local honey. The real highlight here is watching the rhythm of the market, a place where traditions are still very much alive. This is the antidote to the polished airport experience.
2. Explore the textures and tastes of Artyom Market
Just a short distance from Green Bazaar, Artyom Market specialises in an incredible array of spices, nuts, and textiles. It is another authentic market experience, less about fresh produce and more about pantry staples and traditional Kazakh crafts.
This is an excellent place to find unique souvenirs, from intricate local fabrics to a wide variety of dried fruits and nuts. Take your time to browse the stalls, and you might stumble upon something truly unique.
3. Discover Astana’s older charm on the Right Bank (Old City)
For a stark contrast to the modern Left Bank, head to Astana’s Right Bank, the city’s older district that still carries a Soviet-era vibe. This area, increasingly trending in search for a different side of Astana, offers a glimpse into the city’s past before its rapid transformation.
Walk along streets like Kenesary Street and Republic Avenue, observing the older residential buildings and local cafes. It is a more grounded experience than the grand monuments of the new city, focusing on the everyday life of Astana’s residents. This is where you connect with a different kind of history than what you might find in a museum.
4. Savor an authentic Uyghur Lagman Experience
After exploring the Right Bank, make your way to the Old Railway Station area for a deeply satisfying meal. This neighbourhood is known for its authentic Uyghur lagman, a staple Central Asian dish that is hearty and flavourful.
This hand-pulled noodle dish is typically served with stir-fried lamb or beef, fresh vegetables, and a rich, spiced broth. It is comfort food at its best, a delicious and filling experience that will warm you from the inside out. I have had countless bowls of lagman across Central Asia, and the versions here are consistently excellent.
5. Delve into history at the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan
Transition from the old city to the new by visiting the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan. This impressive institution near Independence Square takes you on a comprehensive journey through the nation’s history, from ancient nomadic cultures to its modern independence.
Its extensive collections and interactive exhibits offer deep cultural insights. Make sure to find the Golden Man exhibit, a replica of a 2,500-year-old Saka warrior adorned with thousands of gold pieces, a powerful national symbol.
6. Marvel at the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation (Pyramid)
Just a short walk from the National Museum, the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation is a striking pyramid-shaped building designed by Norman Foster. It stands as a powerful symbol of interfaith harmony, hosting the Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions.
The unique architecture alone makes it worth seeing, but its cultural significance adds another layer of interest. It is a functioning cultural center, so check if there are any events or exhibitions taking place during your visit.
Final word
Astana is a city that grows on you, not with immediate charm, but with its sheer ambition and the quiet warmth of its people. A 12-hour layover here offers a unique chance to witness a capital in motion, a place where nomadic heritage meets a bold, modern vision. It is a different kind of layover experience, one that pushes you to engage with a culture often overlooked, similar to exploring markets and local life in 6 Hours in Dakar or 6 Hours in Tbilisi.
All practical information was verified at the time of writing. Please confirm hours and prices before you go.